The very act of
gardening generates a large amount of grass clippings, leaves,
and other plant debris. Throwing out all of this material can
rob the soil of key nutrients that plants need. (For you tractor
drivers and excavators, excavating and not covering with native
grasses or returning the top soil can cause even more ruined
land that will take decades to recover and become overrun with
hardy and invasive native weeds.) The breakdown of this organic
material is what provides good topsoil. Ever wonder why it's
hard to get things to grow in the plains? Remember the "dust
bowl"? People were farming land, harvesting trees and not
re-planting. With out new plants or trees to naturally shed and
break down...the soil became dusty and dry during drought. When
high winds came -without trees to break the wind- Any top soil
was simply blown away. We now know to use crop covers and
reforestation techniques, but with the damage done, it is our
job to make our own yards and properties in these hard to grow
areas the fertile land it once was.
Compost not only adds nutrients to the soil – it also increases
the ground’s ability to hold water. Compost is loose and porous,
with plenty of air pockets that harbor soil microbes and soak up
water like a sponge, slowly releasing it as plants need it.
The same properties that help compost retain water also promote
root growth. In loose soil, plants can put down deeper roots
over a wider area. This increases drought resistance and it also
protects the ground against erosion.
throwing organic material into our rapidly filling landfills,
you can transform the material into black gold for your yard and
garden. Composting is a great way to dispose of unsightly
organic waste and improve the quality of your soil at the same
time. It’s win-win!
Composting keeps organic
waste out of the landfill and returns valuable fertilizer to the
earth. If you pay a disposal fee based on weight or the number
of bags you throw out, composting will save you money right away
and keep saving you money in the form of reduced fertilizer
costs, watering, and pest control.
|Bagged Compost, Planting Mix & Mulch
Because all Permagreen products are organic and
specifically formulated to maximize the growing
potentials of the soils in our region, our customers
experience more healthy, beautiful lawns, flowers, and
gardens. Compost or soil conditioners are concentrated
and not to be planted directly into but mixed with
native soil in garden beds or with soils to fill in tree
and shrub plantings. Planting mixes are mixes of top
soils, compost and other organic ingredient and
can be planted in directly in beds, planters or
planting holes without being to rich. One ammends the
soil..one replaces it. Mulches and top dressings of
compost can be spread on top of plantings protecting
from harsh weather extremes and reducing watering
eventually breaking down and leaching into the soil-but
also providing a decorative trim to the garden. An
analogy: Mulches are what "Insulation, Siding and Trim"
are to house buildin. in a landscape design, Always
cover your bare soil or your foundation (the roots and
the soil) will be exposed to weather extremes.
SEE SOIL BUILDING
recomended from some of our best gardeners for all
purpose amending, this compost breaks up clay-holds
moisture in sand-and adds added nutrients and texture
for all purpose planting.
Blend 50/50 with existing soil or use lightly as top
dressing.Great for the "concrete" clay sand mix we have
to call dirt.
blend of composts made from dairy manure, wheat straw,
cottonseed hulls, forest products and sphagnum peat.
It's one of the basic formulas used by mushroom growers.
What separates this from other mushroom compost is that
no mushrooms were grown in this, so all the
micronutrients, trace elements and other conditioning
agents are still available to your plants. Nothing has
been used up from the growing of mushrooms. Don't worry
about funguses, high salts from nitrogen residues, or
other growths being in Permagreen Mushroom Blend. It's
dark, rich, superior soil conditioner to help loosen
your soil, provide nutrients and trace elements, and
increase water holding capacity. Use wherever you want
anything to grow. Blend 50/50 with existing soil or use
lightly as top dressing.
Confused about which compost to buy? A high price does
not make a superior product, how the compost is made
makes the difference. That's how Perm green's Blue
Ribbon Compost has the others beat. Over the coarse of a
year our compost is turned and closely monitored to
insure the right temperature, moisture, oxygen and
carbon levels are maintained. This finished compost is
then blended with the right amount of bark mulch and
humus. A dark, rich, superior soil conditioner to help
loosen your soil, provide nutrients and trace elements,
and increase water holding capacity. Use wherever you
want anything to grow. Blend 50/50 with existing soil.
||This compost is a favorite for
planting larger Balled and Burlapped Trees.
Blend 50/50 with existing soil.Great for new
Specially formulated for Colorado's soil. The right
blend of rich sandy loam, bark mulch, humus, and compost
to provide an ideal environment for strong, healthy root
growth. Also helps eliminate root shock after planting.
||Lowers PH! This compost is how
you change the soil to get plants and grass to grow
under native pines!
This environmentally friendly product is made from 100%
recycled materials. It's a great new soil conditioner,
far superior to mountain peat-in many ways for those of
you with acidic soil. It provides micronutrients, helps
lower soil pH and retain moisture, supplies organic
matter, and helps keep your soil loose and fluffy. Mix
Permagreen Super Humus ˝ & ˝ with other Permagreen
products such as Steer Manure, Sheep Manure, etc. then
blend into your existing soil.
||Garden Soil Mix is
a planting mix. Perfect for veggies and flowers in the
garden. Great for vegetable and flower gardening and
perfect for raised beds or barrels and troughs. Not
recommended for small containers-use a potting soil with
persolite or vermiculite for adequate drainage through
key to a healthy garden is properly conditioned soil. If
your soil isn't right your crop won't be right. That's
where Permagreen Garden Soil Mix comes in. Blend with
the existing soil in your garden, the result is a rich,
dark loamy soil ideal for planting or transplanting.
Permagreen Garden Soil Mix also helps maintain soil
temperature, supplies natural time-release nutrients,
and helps retain soil moisture… It's the right stuff
Plantersfor your garden.
Planters Mix: The name says it all, plant directly or
mix with existing soil-All purpose, well draining, yet
holds moisture when needed.
A blend of top soil, humus, compost, and bark fines. A
great mix to blend into your large container plantings,
or mixed into your soil to plant trees, shrubs, or
flowers. This dark, rich mix will help reduce root
shock, allow oxygen to get to the roots, and provide
much needed trace elements and nutrients. Use Permagreen
Planters Mix, your trees, shrubs, and flowers will love
you for it!
Top Soil...incase yours has blown or been excavated
A blend of composted manure, top soil and humus. The
ideal medium for any yard project, including
planter boxes, gardens, transplanting, blending with
existing soil, and filling low spots in lawns. Blend
50/50 Pottingwith existing soil.
Ideal for outdoor planting or transplanting of annuals
or perennials. This perfect blend of bark fines, humus,
perlite, sharp sand, and sphagnum peat moss produces a
beautiful loamy soil to provide a great environment for
roots. Available in both 40 qt. and 20 qt. bags.
A blend of composted, screened Pine Bark fines. This
rich product can be used as a ground cover that can be
blended into your soil at the end of
the season as an excellent soil conditioner.
Available in 2 or 3 cu.ft. bags sized: small, medium or
large. Our bark is a blend of Ponderosa Pine, Douglas,
and Red Fir. Bark is a great ground cover that adds a
nice color contrast to flowers, trees, and shrubs
Shredded Red Cedar Mulch
having a distinctive and colorful look. Forms a dense
mat that serves as an excellent weed barrier. It
insulates soil around plants, has a great Cedar aroma,
and long lasting color. Use Shredded Red Cedar in areas
where wind is a problem.
You can make
compost by collecting and composting fall leaves. Up to 4 inches of this
type of compost can be mixed into soil each season to improve its
texture and boost its organic matter content.
Make Your Own Compost
A stationary composter provides neat, easy-to-manage disposal of
kitchen and garden wastes.
A tumbler makes fast work of turning compost and keeps it away from
A ratio of three parts "browns" to one part "greens" will help keep
your compost cooking.
As long as they are not holding mature weed seeds, you can add
pulled weeds to your summer compost pile along with failing garden
Set up conveniently located pens to collect leaves for composting in
There are as many ways to make a compost pile as there are gardeners.
You can create a free-standing compost heap, which is literally a mound
or pile that is preferably out of sight. Or you can buy composting bins
in many styles, or you can build your own bin out of lumber and
The Ingredient Layers
Any material that was once a plant, from asparagus trimmings to autumn
leaves, can be composted. Most households generate a steady stream of
compost materials from the kitchen, garden, and landscape. Begin
layering organic materials such as leaves, straw, old corn stalks,
weed-free and pesticide-free grass clippings, egg shells, coffee
grounds, tea, fruit peels, and other organic matter from the kitchen;
just avoid meats, greasy ingredients, and pet droppings. If most of the
compost materials at your house come from your kitchen, consider using
an enclosed composter. In addition to keeping the compost hidden from
view, stationary composters discourage unwanted visits from animals.
The bigger your garden, the more you will need a good place to compost
its waste. An open pile that can be chopped and turned quickly works
well for composting garden waste. Leaves need to weather for a while
before they decompose, so it is often best to stockpile them in a bin
through the winter. In spring, the weathered leaves can be used as
mulch, or you can combine them with kitchen and garden waste to help
them rot a little faster. Some gardeners chop leaves with a mulching
mower or a leaf shredder so that they are small enough to add to a pile
Sprinkle your pile with a couple of shovelfuls of topsoil or previously
composted materials to include the needed microorganisms for
decomposition. Just a sprinkle of organic fertilizer such as blood meal
or feather meal also adds nitrogen to speed decomposition.
If you are creating an open-air “pile,” continue layering these items
until your mix is 3 to 4 feet tall. Water between layers, but don’t make
the pile soggy. If you put your materials in a purchased compost
tumbler, just add and tumble.
Balancing Browns and Greens
There is no precise recipe or formula for making compost beyond the
simple ratio of 3 parts “browns” to 1 part “greens.” As shown in the
list below, most “browns” come from trees, and they are rich in carbon
(often abbreviated as C in composting lingo). “Greens” come from
fresher, juicier materials like garden and kitchen waste, but any
ingredient that is rich in nitrogen (N) qualifies as a green.
Every gardener has plenty of greens in summer, followed by an abundant
supply of browns in the fall. To make it fast and convenient to balance
your compost, save up shredded leaves and pine needles in the fall, and
store them in trash bags, an old garbage can, or large wire pen. In
summer, should watermelon rinds and spent plants overload your compost
with greens, layering on some leaves will set things to right.
Composters who live in areas where leaves are scarce often use shredded
newspaper to keep summer compost from going gloppy with too many greens.
If your garden is small yet your yard has many trees, your compost may
need additional greens to balance all the browns from collected leaves.
Grass clippings from lawns that have not been treated with herbicides
will give fast results when mixed into a stalled leaf-based compost, or
you can energize it with high-nitrogen plant meals like alfalfa, canola,
or cottonseed meal. When sprinkled in among layers or mixed in well,
organic fertilizers made from poultry manure provide nitrogen for
When made of 3 parts “browns” and 1 part “greens,” any compost will make
|Hay or straw
||Fresh green weeds
|Newspapers or cardboard
||Manure, organic fertilizers
Air, Water, and Stirring
Air and water are the secrets to good composting. Keep the materials
moist and well aerated. You speed the process by turning the compost
with your turning fork, basically stirring it. One ingenious method puts
compost in plastic garbage cans covered by tight-fitting lids with air
holes drilled in the top. That way you can roll the can to stir the
Compost Does Happen
If you turn the ingredients every week or two, the compost will form
more rapidly than if you don’t. Some people rarely turn their piles;
others do so religiously. Find your own balance here. Compost turning is
good upper-body exercise!
Good compost has a pleasant, earthy smell. Unpleasant odor is the sign
of too much water or too many green ingredients. Turn more often, reduce
the moisture content, or add dry, brown ingredients such as leaves or
straw to balance the mix.
If you turn the pile, it will decompose more evenly and quickly.
Invest in a good-quality turning fork to make easy work of reaching into the
pile to mix the ingredients.