Smart composting

The very act of gardening generates a large amount of grass clippings, leaves, and other plant debris. Throwing out all of this material can rob the soil of key nutrients that plants need. (For you tractor drivers and excavators, excavating and not covering with native grasses or returning the top soil can cause even more ruined land that will take decades to recover and become overrun with hardy and invasive native weeds.) The breakdown of this organic material is what provides good topsoil. Ever wonder why it's hard to get things to grow in the plains? Remember the "dust bowl"? People were farming land, harvesting trees and not re-planting. With out new plants or trees to naturally shed and break down...the soil became dusty and dry during drought. When high winds came -without trees to break the wind- Any top soil was simply blown away. We now know to use crop covers and reforestation techniques, but with the damage done, it is our job to make our own yards and properties in these hard to grow areas the fertile land it once was.

Compost not only adds nutrients to the soil – it also increases the ground’s ability to hold water. Compost is loose and porous, with plenty of air pockets that harbor soil microbes and soak up water like a sponge, slowly releasing it as plants need it.

The same properties that help compost retain water also promote root growth. In loose soil, plants can put down deeper roots over a wider area. This increases drought resistance and it also protects the ground against erosion.

 Instead of throwing organic material into our rapidly filling landfills, you can transform the material into black gold for your yard and garden. Composting is a great way to dispose of unsightly organic waste and improve the quality of your soil at the same time. It’s win-win!

Composting keeps organic waste out of the landfill and returns valuable fertilizer to the earth. If you pay a disposal fee based on weight or the number of bags you throw out, composting will save you money right away and keep saving you money in the form of reduced fertilizer costs, watering, and pest control.

 

Bagged Compost, Planting Mix & Mulch
Because all Permagreen products are organic and specifically formulated to maximize the growing potentials of the soils in our region, our customers experience more healthy, beautiful lawns, flowers, and gardens. Compost or soil conditioners are concentrated and not to be planted directly into but mixed with native soil in garden beds or with soils to fill in tree and shrub plantings. Planting mixes are mixes of top soils, compost and other organic  ingredient and can  be planted in directly in beds, planters or planting holes without being to rich. One ammends the soil..one replaces it. Mulches and top dressings of compost can be spread on top of plantings protecting from harsh weather extremes and reducing watering eventually breaking down and leaching into the soil-but also providing a decorative trim to the garden. An analogy: Mulches are what "Insulation, Siding and Trim" are to house buildin. in a landscape design, Always cover your bare soil or your foundation (the roots and the soil) will be exposed to weather extremes.

SEE SOIL BUILDING
 

Highly recomended from some of our best gardeners for all purpose amending, this compost breaks up clay-holds moisture in sand-and adds added nutrients and texture for all purpose planting. Blend 50/50 with existing soil or use lightly as top dressing.Great for the "concrete" clay sand mix we have to call dirt.

A blend of composts made from dairy manure, wheat straw, cottonseed hulls, forest products and sphagnum peat. It's one of the basic formulas used by mushroom growers. What separates this from other mushroom compost is that no mushrooms were grown in this, so all the micronutrients, trace elements and other conditioning agents are still available to your plants. Nothing has been used up from the growing of mushrooms. Don't worry about funguses, high salts from nitrogen residues, or other growths being in Permagreen Mushroom Blend. It's clean!

A dark, rich, superior soil conditioner to help loosen your soil, provide nutrients and trace elements, and increase water holding capacity. Use wherever you want anything to grow. Blend 50/50 with existing soil or use lightly as top dressing.

Confused about which compost to buy? A high price does not make a superior product, how the compost is made makes the difference. That's how Perm green's Blue Ribbon Compost has the others beat. Over the coarse of a year our compost is turned and closely monitored to insure the right temperature, moisture, oxygen and carbon levels are maintained. This finished compost is then blended with the right amount of bark mulch and humus. A dark, rich, superior soil conditioner to help loosen your soil, provide nutrients and trace elements, and increase water holding capacity. Use wherever you want anything to grow. Blend 50/50 with existing soil.

This compost is a favorite for planting larger Balled and Burlapped Trees. Blend 50/50 with existing soil.Great for new plantings...blend well.

Specially formulated for Colorado's soil. The right blend of rich sandy loam, bark mulch, humus, and compost to provide an ideal environment for strong, healthy root growth. Also helps eliminate root shock after planting.

Lowers PH! This compost is how you change the soil to get plants and grass to grow under native pines!

This environmentally friendly product is made from 100% recycled materials. It's a great new soil conditioner, far superior to mountain peat-in many ways for those of you with acidic soil. It provides micronutrients, helps lower soil pH and retain moisture, supplies organic matter, and helps keep your soil loose and fluffy. Mix Permagreen Super Humus ˝ & ˝ with other Permagreen products such as Steer Manure, Sheep Manure, etc. then blend into your existing soil.

Garden Soil Mix is a planting mix. Perfect for veggies and flowers in the garden. Great for vegetable and flower gardening and perfect for raised beds or barrels and troughs. Not recommended for small containers-use a potting soil with persolite or vermiculite for adequate drainage through small holes.

The key to a healthy garden is properly conditioned soil. If your soil isn't right your crop won't be right. That's where Permagreen Garden Soil Mix comes in. Blend with the existing soil in your garden, the result is a rich, dark loamy soil ideal for planting or transplanting. Permagreen Garden Soil Mix also helps maintain soil temperature, supplies natural time-release nutrients, and helps retain soil moisture… It's the right stuff Plantersfor your garden.

Planters Mix: The name says it all, plant directly or mix with existing soil-All purpose, well draining, yet holds moisture when needed.

A blend of top soil, humus, compost, and bark fines. A great mix to blend into your large container plantings, or mixed into your soil to plant trees, shrubs, or flowers. This dark, rich mix will help reduce root shock, allow oxygen to get to the roots, and provide much needed trace elements and nutrients. Use Permagreen Planters Mix, your trees, shrubs, and flowers will love you for it!

Top Soil...incase yours has blown or been excavated away.

A blend of composted manure, top soil and humus. The ideal medium for any yard  project, including planter boxes, gardens, transplanting, blending with existing soil, and filling low spots in lawns. Blend 50/50 Pottingwith existing soil.

Potting Soil

 

Ideal for outdoor planting or transplanting of annuals or perennials. This perfect blend of bark fines, humus, perlite, sharp sand, and sphagnum peat moss produces a beautiful loamy soil to provide a great environment for roots. Available in both 40 qt. and 20 qt. bags.

Bark Mulch

A blend of composted, screened Pine Bark fines. This rich product can be used as a ground cover that can be blended into your soil at the end of

the season as an excellent soil conditioner.

Deco Bark

Available in 2 or 3 cu.ft. bags sized: small, medium or large. Our bark is a blend of Ponderosa Pine, Douglas, and Red Fir. Bark is a great ground cover that adds a nice color contrast to flowers, trees, and shrubs

Shredded Red Cedar Mulch

Shredded and having a distinctive and colorful look. Forms a dense mat that serves as an excellent weed barrier. It insulates soil around plants, has a great Cedar aroma, and long lasting color. Use Shredded Red Cedar in areas where wind is a problem.

   
 
 

 

 

 


You can make  compost by collecting and composting fall leaves. Up to 4 inches of this type of compost can be mixed into soil each season to improve its texture and boost its organic matter content.

Make Your Own Compost


A stationary composter provides neat, easy-to-manage disposal of kitchen and garden wastes.

A tumbler makes fast work of turning compost and keeps it away from critters.

A ratio of three parts "browns" to one part "greens" will help keep your compost cooking.

As long as they are not holding mature weed seeds, you can add pulled weeds to your summer compost pile along with failing garden plants.

Set up conveniently located pens to collect leaves for composting in the fall.
 

There are as many ways to make a compost pile as there are gardeners. You can create a free-standing compost heap, which is literally a mound or pile that is preferably out of sight. Or you can buy composting bins in many styles, or you can build your own bin out of lumber and wire-mesh fencing.

The Ingredient Layers

Any material that was once a plant, from asparagus trimmings to autumn leaves, can be composted. Most households generate a steady stream of compost materials from the kitchen, garden, and landscape. Begin layering organic materials such as leaves, straw, old corn stalks, weed-free and pesticide-free grass clippings, egg shells, coffee grounds, tea, fruit peels, and other organic matter from the kitchen; just avoid meats, greasy ingredients, and pet droppings. If most of the compost materials at your house come from your kitchen, consider using an enclosed composter. In addition to keeping the compost hidden from view, stationary composters discourage unwanted visits from animals.

The bigger your garden, the more you will need a good place to compost its waste. An open pile that can be chopped and turned quickly works well for composting garden waste. Leaves need to weather for a while before they decompose, so it is often best to stockpile them in a bin through the winter. In spring, the weathered leaves can be used as mulch, or you can combine them with kitchen and garden waste to help them rot a little faster. Some gardeners chop leaves with a mulching mower or a leaf shredder so that they are small enough to add to a pile immediately.

Sprinkle your pile with a couple of shovelfuls of topsoil or previously composted materials to include the needed microorganisms for decomposition. Just a sprinkle of organic fertilizer such as blood meal or feather meal also adds nitrogen to speed decomposition.

If you are creating an open-air “pile,” continue layering these items until your mix is 3 to 4 feet tall. Water between layers, but don’t make the pile soggy. If you put your materials in a purchased compost tumbler, just add and tumble.

Balancing Browns and Greens

There is no precise recipe or formula for making compost beyond the simple ratio of 3 parts “browns” to 1 part “greens.” As shown in the list below, most “browns” come from trees, and they are rich in carbon (often abbreviated as C in composting lingo). “Greens” come from fresher, juicier materials like garden and kitchen waste, but any ingredient that is rich in nitrogen (N) qualifies as a green.

Every gardener has plenty of greens in summer, followed by an abundant supply of browns in the fall. To make it fast and convenient to balance your compost, save up shredded leaves and pine needles in the fall, and store them in trash bags, an old garbage can, or large wire pen. In summer, should watermelon rinds and spent plants overload your compost with greens, layering on some leaves will set things to right. Composters who live in areas where leaves are scarce often use shredded newspaper to keep summer compost from going gloppy with too many greens.

If your garden is small yet your yard has many trees, your compost may need additional greens to balance all the browns from collected leaves. Grass clippings from lawns that have not been treated with herbicides will give fast results when mixed into a stalled leaf-based compost, or you can energize it with high-nitrogen plant meals like alfalfa, canola, or cottonseed meal. When sprinkled in among layers or mixed in well, organic fertilizers made from poultry manure provide nitrogen for compost, too.

When made of 3 parts “browns” and 1 part “greens,” any compost will make good progress.

TYPICAL BROWNS TYPICAL GREENS
Leaves Kitchen waste
Pine needles Grass clippings
Hay or straw Fresh green weeds
Newspapers or cardboard Coffee grounds
Sawdust Manure, organic fertilizers

Air, Water, and Stirring

Air and water are the secrets to good composting. Keep the materials moist and well aerated. You speed the process by turning the compost with your turning fork, basically stirring it. One ingenious method puts compost in plastic garbage cans covered by tight-fitting lids with air holes drilled in the top. That way you can roll the can to stir the material inside.

Compost Does Happen

If you turn the ingredients every week or two, the compost will form more rapidly than if you don’t. Some people rarely turn their piles; others do so religiously. Find your own balance here. Compost turning is good upper-body exercise!

Good compost has a pleasant, earthy smell. Unpleasant odor is the sign of too much water or too many green ingredients. Turn more often, reduce the moisture content, or add dry, brown ingredients such as leaves or straw to balance the mix.


If you turn the pile, it will decompose more evenly and quickly. Invest in a good-quality turning fork to make easy work of reaching into the pile to mix the ingredients.

 

 

 

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